AUTUMN WINTER 2020
AUTUMN WINTER 2020
“dunhill is not one thing, it’s many,” says Mark Weston, Creative Director of dunhill.
“This is my fifth show at the house and there feels like a certain kind of summing up in this collection. I am fascinated with The Blitz club, particularly Homer Sykes’ pictures of it. It was a place of freedom and individuality, a mix of cultures: performers, the establishment and art. We don’t seem to have that now, that collision. And the collision is important. The man in this collection is a cross between the preppy and the new wave, the establishment and the anti-establishment – it is not about making purely singular characters. Instead, it is about taking all those elements and putting them together, reconstructing and recontextualising. I approached the collection in terms of process – dismantling it and putting it together in a different way. It is also about how to build and engineer clothing. It is a mindset that is not lofty, but it is exciting in its technicality. In many ways, it is a new view of deconstruction.”
The old guard and the avant-garde are both celebrated in the latest dunhill collection, where tradition and subversion work together in a distinctly British way. The technical specificity of menswear is celebrated, with British tailoring traditions explored and experimented with, providing a new take on deconstruction.
Leitmotifs from previous collections reach a culmination in this one, becoming a settled part of the fabric of dunhill. Codes of class and creativity, of the establishment and the anti-establishment, find form once more. The introduction of Pegged trousers in felt and eel skin, a nod to the New Romantics, provide a more relaxed lower half to the silhouette. Standard suiting is eschewed, yet tailoring is both rigorous and sensuous. The wrapped jacket is now also strapped, a subtle play on bondage. Silk knit neckpieces, strong structured shoulders and high break jackets provide a new, sinuous elegance in the upper half. Town and country come together in hints of the equestrian. Luxurious leather outerwear, a tour de force of capes and overcoats in calf and eel, provide drama and yet are engineered and bonded for practicality. Kimono sleeves add to the exploration of volume and structure while the notion of tailoring itself is deconstructed with its secret codes exposed, the inner becoming outer. Here Melton felt under collars, chest canvas and acetate linings emerge, utility transformed into elegance. Brothel creepers and Link strap loafers provide the grounding, accessorised with the new Lock bags.
This is the third show with music provided by Moses Boyd, today collaborating with the poet and musician James Massiah. Both they and their work personify and amplify the codes of creativity at the house. Both are valued members of the dunhill community.
THE OLD GUARD MEETS THE AVANT-GARDE
BRITISH TAILORING TRADITIONS ARE EXPLORED AND EXPERIMENTED WITH
A NEW TAKE ON DECONSTRUCTION
THE LOCK BAG
First seen on the Autumn Winter 2020 runway in Paris, dunhill introduces the Lock Bag – a new house icon celebrating the old guard meeting the avant-garde.
An interplay of House heritage and contemporary elegance, this timeless piece takes inspiration from the classic attaché case; a symbol of British executive style.
Inherently dunhill in its DNA, a solid frame maintains the structured shape, lined with padded nylon to protect the contents inside. Produced in smooth and luxurious box calf leather, this durable material ages well over time allowing each bag to develop its own individual patina and character. Complementing the AW20 collection in a choice of black, ink or oxblood.
Inspired by the textures and finishes of the iconic dunhill Rollagas lighters, as well as 1970s archive packaging, two unique metallic styles are also available in AD brass and AD silver; a collision of tradition and subversion. Produced in limited numbers and manually assembled from four laser cut panels, these exclusive metal bags showcase the signature barley and dunhill longtail logo patterns, recontextualising these motifs for a modern audience.
Each style features a polished brass lock drawn from the archive; reimagined with the founding year of the House and engraved longtail logo. The perfect size to carry the largest iPhone alongside your other daily essentials, a removable shoulder strap adds flexibility as either a cross-body or pochette; utility transformed into elegance.
Part of the wider Lock Collection, alternative styles include the messenger bag and attaché case.
Launching in September 2020, the Lock Bag ranges from: £1,350 – £2,595.
AN INTERPLAY OF HOUSE HERITAGE AND CONTEMPORARY ELEGANCE
A COLLISION OF TRADITION AND SUBVERSION
AUTUMN WINTER 2020 FOOTWEAR
For Autumn Winter 2020, dunhill introduces three new footwear styles direct from the Paris runway: the dunhill Creeper Derby, Creeper loafer and the dunhill Link loafer.
Inspired by the platform soled creepers associated with British punk culture of the 1970s, the lace-up Creeper Derby and slip-on Creeper loafer are finished in black brushed calf leather – for a luxurious take on this distinctly British style.
Utilising sneaker sole technology, the ribbed rubber platform sole is emptied and then injected with a lightweight compound for more comfortable wear; whilst the insole features a carbon active cushion, for added breathability.
Playing with proportions, the dunhill Link loafer combines a slim leather sole with exaggerated chain link hardware, referencing chain watch straps. A cross between the preppy and the new wave.
Inspired by slimmer loafers from the 1970s, the chain link hardware is assembled by hand and finished in AD brass. Engraved with the dunhill Longtail logo, it is applied to the calf leather upper which is brushed to give a subtle clouding effect.
Available from August 2020, the dunhill Creeper Derby is £575, the dunhill Creeper loafer is £535 and the dunhill Link loafer is £725.
A CROSS BETWEEN THE PREPPY AND THE NEW WAVE
COURT PRO & ELITE TRAINERS
Inspired by 1980s tennis shoes, the dunhill Court trainers are available in two distinct styles: Pro and Elite.
A nod to 1980s Casual style culture, Pro features technical and breathable mesh whilst Elite is crafted in calfskin leather, with calf cashmere suede details. Both trainers have a quilted calfskin leather heel counter and a full rubber, bicolour signature sole design, referencing the automotive codes of the House.
Each style is available in two colourways: Pro in grey and red and Elite in black and blue.
DUNHILL AXIS RUNNER
A new addition to dunhill’s signature runner offering, the dunhill Axis Runner is inspired by lightweight 1970s running shoes.
With the name Axis referencing freedom of movement, this new luxury runner from dunhill features elevated details like a perforated calfskin lining and quilted calfskin leather heel counters. Available in black, sand and grey technical nylon, a micro midsole and full rubber outsole feature a natural leather rand at the heel, a nod to classic shoemaking.
Available online now, the dunhill Axis Runner is £385.